I’m a terrible person

I got taken to dinner.  Dark Fate 3 tomorrow morning.

55 responses to “I’m a terrible person

  1. Paul (Drak Bibliophile) Howard

    There are things more important than “Dark Fate 3”. 😀

  2. All are in agreement about you being a terrible person, but there is considerable debate over just why that is so. Getting taken out to dinner hadn’t even made the top twenty.

  3. “I’m a terrible person.”

    That’s part of your charm.

    Hope your dinner was delicious!

  4. Dark fate yesterday, dark fate tomorrow, but no dark fate today? Clearly, we are surrounded by Dark Fate! What a way to go!

  5. Hm. Should we send more tuna to your cats, especially Greebo? Seems he has gotten a bit delinquent with his job of making sure you stay attached to the computer and typing…

  6. thephantom182

    It’s MORRRRRRNING!!!!!! hee hee! [running away giggling]

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  8. But I want my free ice-cream now!

  9. Yes, you are terrible. You write great books (FINALLY read Darkship Thieves and LOVED IT) – plus the people here post links to great music (okay, at Brad’s blog, but still your people) – here I am listening to 2 Steps from Hell on my iPhone at work. It is REALLY hard to do boring work while listening to epic music. I need to go back to Weird Al.

    But, yes, a terrible person. ROFL.

    I hope you enjoyed the dinner Sarah – you have earned it. We will all wait – more or less sane – until you can tell us what Grant is up to in Portugal.


    BTW – I also read the first MHI and loved that book too. I will just have to label a whole shelf of books in my to-be-built library as “because of Sarah” 🙂

    • thephantom182

      “label a whole shelf of books … as “because of Sarah”.
      That is a truly excellent notion, sir. I’m going to get on that.

      Incidentally, a truly excellent book case can be made out of one sheet of 3/4 oak or maple skinned plywood and a piece of ‘mahogany’ flooring underlayment. The trick is to stain it dark, then it looks all expensive when really it costs under $100.00 Dadoes with a router, pin the dadoes with a nailer or an air stapler, or even finishing nails by hand. I use a table saw, but I’m old so I’ve had life to accumulate stuff like that.

      • Not a bad idea phantom, although I was considering routing out a channel on the underside of the 3/4 ply and put a piece of steel in it to avoid the sagging you sometimes get. But is it better to do a right angle piece of steel or a steel tube? Anyone want to toss in their 2 cents?

        First thing I need to build though is a dining room table, so I need a lathe to make some cool legs. Furniture making is a hobby of mine, so I love the excuse to get new power tools. 🙂


        • thephantom182

          For paperbacks, from a single sheet you get 9 shelves ~31″ long, 6″ deep. For larger books you get 7 shelves, ~31″ long and 9 1/2″ deep. Height will be 78″ to 80″, whatever you find convenient. You have to do your own math, everybody’s house/books are different.

          The trick is to start the bottom shelf ~1″ up from the floor, and use only two furniture feet at the front of the cabinet. That way the shelf leans back against the wall and won’t fall down unless somebody pulls it down on purpose. For people with small children or earthquakes, an Ikea-style strap screwed to a stud is the quick-and-dirty accident preventer, or you can use a French cleat at the top for a more super-duper solution.

          Front cut edge is cleaned up with iron-on veneer edging, because this is a quick-and-dirty design. Or you can go full-cabinetmaker and make edging, banding, all kinds of fussy ways to do it.

          Looking at my basement, the old shelves I made six moves ago in the 1990s are not sagging at all. There’s no point in putting metal in a bookshelf less than three feet wide. There’s very few wall spaces -larger- than three feet wide in the average house as well. The 31″ (plus 2 dados!) is a good way to go. And you can CARRY the damn things. Don’t underestimate the pain in the ass that it is to move a huge friggin’ book case. Ask me how I know. ~:D

          Glue-up is one man plus one boy, you have to glue one side first, then have it kind of standing up on its side and have your helper get the shelf corners into the dados, then roll it down to engage the dadoes without smearing glue all over everything. Adjust fitment by whacking it with a rubber hammer, then nail it or staple it. Maybe there’s a smarter way to do it, if you figure it out let me know. 🙂

          Sand, stain and varnish/shellac/paint everything -before- you nail the back on. Otherwise you’re going to spend a lot of time fiddling with it. Don’t glue the back on, there’s no point and it will interfere with movement. Plywood does move, just not very much.

          Cheap crappy 1/4 flooring underlay looks nice with a dark stain on it, and the shelf will be full of Sarah Hoyt volumes anyway, so you never see the back. The only part that really shows is the iron-on edge banding, and it is easy to get that on neatly.

        • thephantom182

          Forgot to add, you can never have too many tools or too many guns. Or books.

          It may be possible to have too many cars, but I haven’t found the limit yet.

          • Thanks for the design ideas – excellent thoughts. I have a unique house, in that the library has a 12 foot wall with nothing in it – so I can have nice long shelves. VBG. Even with that, I will probably set them to be double or triple loaded with softcovers ontop, so that my deep big books (think Jane’s Fighting Ships – the old ones when they did landscape format) will fit without tripping the unwary.

            Shelves will be setup to break down into easy loads – I had that issue once and now everything is designed to break down into easy to handle pieces. Been there, done that, have the pulled muscles to prove it. 🙂

            Any preferences on a brand for a lathe?


            • Brand of lathe – the one belonging to the neighbor who will happily exchange materials and fresh-baked goodies for his time and expertise. 🙂

              Table-saws and lathes are two things that do not like me. The feeling is mutual.

              • thephantom182

                Power machinery requires a level of attention higher than the usual thing. Also a good deal of training, most of which consists of making habits that keep your fingers out of the spinning blades when your attention wanders. Because your attention is going to wander eventually, and because sometimes things break. KAPOW! Then you look down and make sure you still got everything.

                At cabinet school I used to count my fingers before and after every session in the machine room. Its like airplanes. Takeoffs are optional. Landings are not.

            • thephantom182

              If you have money and space, the General is the best. Not the “General International” you get these days, because that’s the Taiwan special. Okay, but for the serious business you want the Canadian made version with the integral base. The huge ones you see in old high school wood shops. King used to make one as well, don’t know if they still do.

              Mass equals stability in woodworking machinery, the more cast iron the better.

              I have an ancient Rockwell Beaver lathe I bought new back in ’80, it has trouble with thin staves because of vibration. 600 lbs of castings would probably do wonders to smooth it out. 🙂

  10. Ah, there is an advantage here. I am going to take this as an opportunity to go finish our esteemed hostess’s latest book in the Space Opera Series – Through Fire.

    (Yes, I know that most of you, if you had started when I did, would have finished it by now. What you can and cannot do is not at issue.)

  11. The image of you and yours basking in the glow of being dissed by the jerks of the UK Proglodyte scene is worth a day or two; “but be back to work all the earlier, etc.”

  12. Taken out to DINNER? The HORROR!! The horror… Hope you enjoyed it

  13. I’m doing something wrong, here.

    When I am a terrible person, I get taken to the icehouse (would say woodshed, but it’s a much colder experience).


  14. Looks at watch. Adjusts for time zone…

    Cooeeee, looks like somebody’s getting taken out to eat a lot.

    Go ahead, take the day off. I see a lot of idle hands who’ll happily commence a workshop. We just need to knock down that wall over there, enlarge this foundation and raise that … hmmm, I think we’ll need to get some extra sky-hooks and order in some more transdimensional lathe plaster.

    Hey! Who was it had the plans for those new bookcases?

    • I saw some comments about lathes. I need to make some goblets, and I want to make a few of those silly disks with holes in them that you run string through and spin them back and forth by pulling the strings. Give the kiddies something to play with.

      • thephantom182

        Suggest a pottery class. ~:) Turning goblets and such can become habit forming, and they’re mostly decoration. A wooden goblet isn’t a practical item to drink liquids out of unless there’s a glass, metal or ceramic insert. “Waterproof” coatings aren’t.

        • Fortunately the goblins up in the fifth floor greenhouse raise waterproof trees. The wood’s perfectly reliable.

      • 1.5″-2″ plastic buttons are easier to find, and spin well.

        • Those don’t develop enough angular momentum. And you can’t add little vanes to them to make buzzing sounds. The ones I like sound like they are getting ready to take off.

    • thephantom182

      You have to do your own figuring. Basic plan is two upright sides, shelves dadoed into the sides, 1/4″ plywood back nailed on, iron-on veneer trim for the front. Two little screw-in furniture feet at the front level the book case and make it lean back against the wall.

      Carving on the head piece “Inspired by Sarah Hoyt” is an exercise left to the reader.

  15. You ARE terrible…. you didn’t invite us! 😉