Food for the Great Anniversary Festival by Jerry Stratton

The day is passed.—The 4th of July, 1776, will be a memorable epoch in the history of America. I am apt to believe it will be celebrated by succeeding generations, as the GREAT ANNIVERSARY FESTIVAL!
That’s how the Morning Chronicle of July 13, 1826, quoted John Adams’s July 3 letter to his wife Abigail. It’s a slight misquote: Adams thought the day of celebration would be July 2, when the Continental Congress voted in favor of independence. Instead, people chose July 4 as the anniversary to celebrate. That was when the Declaration of Independence was approved announcing our independence in terms that were as revolutionary as the revolution itself.
A hundred and fifty years after that misquote, and two hundred years after Adams wrote that letter—that is, in 1976—I and my brothers dressed up as Uncle Sam for our small town’s Independence Day parade. That same year saw the first cookbook I remember my mom using: America’s Bicentennial Cook Book, by the St. Mary’s Altar Society of our church.
Do an eBay search on “bicentennial cookbook” or “1776 1976 cookbook” and there are hundreds of these, for communities across the United States. At the moment I’m writing this I see a wide variety of organizations, from the Conway Junior High PTA of Orlando, Florida through the Hartford (Connecticut) Courant newspaper through the Holy Family Altar Guild of Poland, Ohio—and yes, it’s heavily Polish-influenced, filled with wonderful-looking recipes—through Snyder, Nebraska; Dallas, Texas; the Saint Louis Symphony; the Oklahoma State Fair; the Georgia Power Company; and the Yakima Valley (Washington) District Federation of Women’s Clubs.
Several senior citizens centers, hospitals, even the Congressional Club of Washington, DC, all got into the spirit of ’76 by publishing cookbooks.
One of my favorite snacks in 1976 is also one of my favorite snacks today: oatmeal no bake cookies. Everyone had their own recipe, so I can’t guarantee that my mom used this America’s Bicentennial recipe from Adele Yob at our picnics and reunions that summer. But it is the recipe I use most often today.
Adele Yob’s No-Bake Oatmeal Cookies
- ½ cup butter
- 2 cups sugar
- 4 tbsp cocoa
- ½ cup milk
- 3 cups oatmeal
- 1 tsp vanilla
Mix the butter, sugar, cocoa, and milk in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and boil for one minute, then add the oatmeal and vanilla. Drop quickly from a spoon onto waxed paper.
I’ll be bringing some of these to LibertyCon.
Two years ago for LibertyCon 36 I was inspired by Les Johnson’s LibertyCon 35 side comment, about foods that emit the most positrons, to adapt one of my favorite fudge recipes. Per Les Johnson, I used bananas and brazil nuts, both high positron emitters. The original recipe called for pineapple and pecans, and appeared in the Potter County Home Demonstration Council Bicentennial Cook Book courtesy of Mrs. C.D. Baldwin.
Potter County Hawaiian Fudge
- 2-½ cups sugar
- 1 cup cream
- 8 oz crushed pineapple
- 1 cup pecans
- green coloring
Bring sugar, cream, and pineapple to a boil over medium heat, stirring until blended. Cook until mixture reaches 234°-240° (soft ball).
Remove from heat, add pecans and a few drops of food coloring. Let cool slightly, to about 195°. Beat until creamy. Spread into a buttered or lined 8×8 pan. Score into squares while still warm, and cut when cool.
Whether Hawaiian or Positronic, this is a wonderful fudge. The food coloring is optional, but the fudge is an odd color without it due to the high-temperature cooking of the fruit.
I don’t know how much the country as a whole celebrated the Centennial in 1876. We weren’t that far from the end of the Civil War and were only six years from the last Confederate state’s readmittance to the Union. A search on “1776 1876 cookbooks” on eBay unsurprisingly brings up very few results from that era—such books would be 150 years old this year.
But it was definitely celebrated in Philadelphia. If the various promotional cookbooks of the era are to be believed, everyone involved with food, at least, entered into the competitions that were part of Philadelphia’s 1876 Centennial Exposition, and used that in their promotions.
A search on newspapers.com for “centennial cook book” finds a few advertisements for celebratory collections. Most of them are for Mrs. Ella E. Myers’s Philadelphia-centric 403 page cookbook “and general guide”. Nearly the final hundred pages are dedicated to a pictorial history of Philadelphia with a special focus on locations significant to the Revolution…
…to give each purchaser of this book a little souvenir of our nation’s “Centennial Birthday;” something that may be retained by future posterity as a memento of the grand celebration of this “Centennial Year, 1876.”
I have a copy of this book. It would have been and is an amazing souvenir. It’s also filled with wonderful ideas for food. If you have spare space on your grill, for example, you might take a few tomatoes, cut the stem end out to leave a small divot, and fill the divot with butter, salt, and pepper. At 350° it needs about 50-60 minutes. On a closed grill, adjust to your grill. This is very, very good made in an oven, but it is phenomenal infused with the flavor of grilling over charcoal.
Of interest to food historians, Myers also included an early version of “Saratoga Potato Chips”. But because I enjoy my sweets, one of my favorites from this book is her very quick-to-make German Biscuits.
German Biscuits.
TIME, SIX OR EIGHT MINUTES.
Half a pound of dried flour; five ounces of butter; seven ounces of sugar; two eggs; two dessertspoonsful of cream; peel of a small lemon grated.
Beat five ounces of butter to a cream, and mix in the loaf sugar pounded the grated lemon peel, half a pound of dried flour, and the cream and well-beaten eggs, to form a nice light dough. Mix all well before kneading it, roll it in thin, long, narrow strips, and bake on a tin in a quick oven.
Volume measurements in this era, as opposed to weights, were not generally standardized. For dessert spoons I usually start with two teaspoons as the equivalent. Flour, too, while it is often given in amounts by weight, tended to vary even more than it does today with regard to how much liquid it soaks up. Further, “dried flour” is likely a special kind, perhaps a new kind of packaged flour. The term is only used three times among the hundreds of mentions of flour in Myers’s book.
This is my interpretation of those cookies—and they are cookies. Myers uses the terms “biscuit” and “cake” for what we would call cookies.
German Lemon Cookies
- 7 oz white flour
- 4 oz whole wheat flour
- 5 oz butter
- 7 oz sugar
- 2 eggs, well-beaten
- 4 tsp cream
- grated peel of one lemon
Beat butter until creamy. Beat in the sugar and lemon peel. Stir in the flour. Add the cream and eggs and mix to a light dough. Drop by teaspoons onto greased baking sheet and flatten with a wet fork.
Bake 6-8 minutes at 425° until golden.
I took a few liberties with it; while I don’t know specifically what “dried flour” was, most flour called for in 1876 and even in the late 1700s meant a flour that was closer to our white flour than to our whole wheat flour. I just happen to like whole wheat. For historical accuracy, replace the whole wheat flour with however much white flour you need to get a cookie or biscuit dough consistency.
The women of the First Congregational Church of Marysville, Ohio, also got into the celebration with their Centennial Buckeye Cook Book. This is the second-most-commonly advertised “Centennial Cook Book” in newspapers of the era, at least as archived on newspapers.com. The Women featured this quote on their book’s indicia page:
“Bad dinners go hand in hand with total depravity, while a properly fed man is already half saved.”
Of particular interest from a Centennial perspective is the chapter with “a recipe from the households of the President and each of the Centennial Governors of the States and Territories”.
That was the plan. They received only twenty-six responses, not all of them recipes, and nothing from the President. I have not tried any of them, but looking at them right now Massachusetts Governor Rice’s Rice Cake looks both interesting and indicative of a sense of humor.
What I did try was a heavy-on-black-pepper coleslaw from a Mrs. Hawkins.
CABBAGE SALAD.
Mrs. Hawkins.
Two quarts finely chopped cabbage, two tablespoons salt, two of white sugar, one of black pepper, and a heaping one of ground mustard; rub yolks of four hard boiled eggs until smooth, add half cup butter slightly warmed; mix thoroughly with the cabbage and add teacup good vinegar; serve with whites of the eggs sliced and placed on the salad.
I tend to go lighter on the salt than the original. But then, I have a refrigerator.
Ohio Black Pepper Slaw
- 2 lbs shredded cabbage
- 1-2 tbsp salt
- 2 tbsp sugar
- 1 tbsp black pepper
- 1 tbsp ground mustard
- 4 hard boiled eggs
- ½ cup melted butter
- ¾ cup vinegar
Mix the cabbage, salt, sugar, pepper, and mustard. Mash the egg yolks smooth and mix the butter and yolk thoroughly to make a creamy paste. Stir the yolk and then the vinegar into the cabbage.
Slice the egg whites and toss into the salad. Adjust vinegar, salt, sugar, and pepper as desired.
Also for the Philadelphia Exhibition, the “Women’s Centennial Executive Committee” of Philadelphia solicited recipes for and published, The National Cookery Book of the International Exhibition of 1876. The book is disappointing in that it does not attribute most (or any that I saw) of the recipes. But the solicitation, as printed in the December 2, 1875, Beloit (Wisconsin) Free Press is worthy of remembrance:
It is designed to make this work purely American, excluding, as far as is possible, the receipts common to all nations. The products of our country are more varied than those of other lands, comprising numerous articles in common use at our tables, partially, if not wholly, unknown to the inhabitants of the old world, or used by them only as luxuries. The varieties of climate give to each section its own peculiar products, but the facilities for transportation, which bring to our doors even from far-off California its delicious fruits and vegetables, render the resources of the table common to all, and therefore National.
…
No receipt will be considered too homely, if characteristic of the country. Dishes peculiar to rich and poor—to hunting, fishing, or exploring expeditions, or to camp life, &c., &c., are desired. If comical, and at the same time good, so much the better. Our aim is to give the true savor of American life in all its varieties.
There are several recipes for brown bread in the book, but the recipe submitted by “M.S.A.” by way of the Niles (Michigan) Democrat of January 15, 1876 does not appear to have made it in.
I have been requested to furnish for publication the following recipe for making brown bread. Having used it in my family for years, I pronounce it unapproachable in simplicity and excellence, and am satisfied that every good housewife will number it among her choice recipes. It is certainly worthy a place in the “Centennial Cook Book:” — M.S.A.
3 pints Graham flour; 1 tea cup, or less, of molasses; 1 teaspoon of salt; 1 teaspoon of saleratus; sour milk sufficient to make a stiff batter; steam three or four hours; bake in moderate oven to give a light crust.
I have not tried it; but if you do I’d suggest starting with ¾ cup as the equivalent of a tea cup; and a 1:1.25 ratio for saleratus:baking soda, thus, 1-¼ tsp baking soda—unless, of course, you have saleratus on hand.
M.S.A.’s submission is followed by a notice that it isn’t just fruits and vegetables making their way east from “far-off California”.
A stamp mill with two hammers weighing 200 pounds each has just been put in place for use in the metallurgical department of the Michigan University. Three tons of gold and silver ore are now on the way from California for use in the department.
One of the companies advertising their participation in the Philadelphia Exposition was the Rumford Chemical Works, and their Horsford baking powder. They didn’t call it baking powder except in their awards listing, which included an award from the “Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia, 1876.”. They called their product a “bread preparation”. It contained a soda and an acid separately, which were mixed together at the time of baking using a special two-sided measuring device that had one side twice as big as the other.
A recipe that grew on me in the few days after I made is not quite as American as apple pie. I was a little disappointed when I first made this apple custard pie. I had it for dessert, and—for someone with my sweet tooth, at least—it’s not really a modern dessert. But it turned out to be a great breakfast treat with a cup of coffee.
APPLE CUSTARD PIE.—Peel sour apples and stew until soft and not much water left in them; then rub thorough a cullender; beat three eggs for each pie to be baked, and put in at the rate of one cup butter and one of sugar for three pies; season with nutmeg.
Less eggs and butter will make a good pie not as rich as above recipe.
My version makes one pie:
Horsford Apple Custard Pie
- 2-½ lbs Granny Smith apples
- ⅓ cup butter
- ⅓ cup sugar
- 3 eggs
- ½ tsp nutmeg
- 2 9-inch pie crusts
Peel, core, and purée apples in food processor until smooth. Stew over medium-low heat until no water pools at bottom when stirring. Or, consider baking the apples whole and using a food mill to get the meat without the core and peel. Let cool.
Blend the ⅓ cup butter into the apple. Blend in the sugar and nutmeg. Beat in the eggs one at a time.
Fill bottom crust with the apple mixture. Layer top crust over, and cut or poke holes for steam vents. Bake at 375° for 45-60 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.
Any pastry crust will do. Horsford, of course, wanted you to make their own pie crust, using their baking powder, and you can download the full Horsford Cook-Book as a PDF from my Centennial Meal page to see it. But if you want a pastry from the Founders’ era, “Amelia Simmons” has several in her American Cookery. I especially like her puff paste number 3, although I’ll be using her Royal Paste (number 9) for the cranberry tarts I’ll be bringing to LibertyCon.
Puff Pastes for Tarts.
No. 3. To any quantity of flour, rub in three fourths of it’s weight of butter, (twelve eggs to a peck) rub in one third or half, and roll in the rest.
A later edition amended this recipe:
ERRATA.
Page 29. Puff pastes for tarts, No. 3; for 12 eggs read 6.
In Pastes, the white of eggs only are to be used.
Incorporating the errata and sizing it for a double-crust pie, this is how I make it:
American Paste Number 3
- 10 oz flour
- 8 oz butter (cold)
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 large egg white
Combine flour and salt. Cut in four ounces butter. Mix in egg white by hand until dough barely holds. Form ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate one hour along with rolling board.
Flatten dough into rectangle. Divide half remaining butter into six pats, laying three on one side of rectangle. Fold over a third, and lay the remaining three on top, folding the remaining third over.
Roll again to rectangle and repeat with remaining butter. Divide into two squares, wrap, and refrigerate one hour. Press one into disc for 8- or 9-inch pie pan. Fill, and flatten remaining dough for top.
Because it calls for a single egg white, if I only need it for a single-crust pie I store the extra dough in the freezer until I need it. It’s rare for it to need storage for longer than two weeks.
American Cookery was published in 1796, and is the first American cookbook. No one knows who Amelia Simmons was; the only information we have is what is on the cover of American Cookery, and what can be inferred from the text of American Cookery, which is a bit circular from the standpoint of historical evidence. Whenever I read historians trying to describe who Amelia Simmons was, I get the feeling she may also be our first fictional food spokesperson. But regardless of Amelia Simmons’s identity or existence, the opening text of the book is remarkable.
The orphan, tho’ left to the care of virtuous guardians, will find it essentially necessary to have an opinion and determination of her own… It must ever remain a check on the poor solitary orphan, that while those females who have parents, or brothers, or riches, to defend their indiscretions, that the orphan must depend solely upon character.
My metaphor alarm may be overly sensitive, but this sets it off every time I read it. This is as much a description of America at the time—just seven years from the Constitution and only five from the completion of the Bill of Rights—as it is of a generic “poor solitary orphan”.
Also of interest is how different the methods in this book are from modern ones. If you don’t, as many refrigerator manufacturers did, consider refrigeration to be cooking, then cooking changed far more between 1796 and 1876 than between 1876 and today.
One of those early advancements was just beginning to play out. Four of her recipes, two cookies and two gingerbreads, are among the earliest recipes that call for pearlash, an early baking soda-like leavener. You can generally replace pearlash 1:1 with baking soda.
Another of my favorites from American Cookery is, sadly, not one of the nicest looking of the recipes in this book. But I love old-school puddings and I love cornbread. Her “Nice Indian Pudding… No. 2” is, at least as I make it, a bit of a cross between a corn pudding and a custardy corn bread.
A Nice Indian Pudding.
No. 2. 3 pints scalded milk to one pint meal salted; cool, add 2 eggs, 4 ounces butter, sugar or molasses and spice q.f. it will require two and half hours baking.
Note that if you choose to make the third “nice Indian pudding” rather than the second, there’s an entry in the errata for it.
I use molasses for the sweetener. If you can find a source for sorghum molasses, I strongly recommend it. It’s often available at specialty nut shops and at Amish-style groceries.
A Nice Indian Pudding
- 3 cups very hot milk
- 1 cup cornmeal
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 2 oz melted butter
- ½ cup molasses
- ¼ tsp nutmeg
Mix the cornmeal and salt. Stir in the hot milk. Cool to room temperature.
Beat egg into batter, stir in butter, molasses, and nutmeg, and pour into a two-quart baking dish. Place into a larger dish and pour hot water around it to about ¼ inch.
Bake for about 90 minutes to two hours at 300°.
It’s a bit clichéd to call Thomas Jefferson the first American foodie, but he really was. He’s famous for introducing French and Italian food to the United States. Less well known is that he also worked hard to introduce the French and others to American food, even growing American corn in his garden when he was the ambassador to France, to serve corn on the cob to his French guests.
Like Benjamin Franklin, he thought that American Pippin apples were superior to any apple in Europe.
Unfortunately, while some of his recipes are publicly available in their original form, such as his wonderful biscuits de savoye and his famous ice cream—both in his own handwriting—most are only available in archives far from Texas. For these recipes I used the 1976 University of Virginia edition of Marie Kimball’s 1938 Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book.
Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book is a wonderful resource, but it has two serious flaws. The first and most obvious is that it provides interpretations of eighteenth and nineteenth century recipes through 1938 eyes, without presenting the original text. The second is that it doesn’t tell us exactly where the recipes come from. Kimball appears to have used the notes of Jefferson’s granddaughter Virginia Jefferson Trist. Trist’s collection was a family collection, and contains recipes from well after Jefferson died.
Martha Jefferson Randolph, however, was Thomas Jefferson’s daughter. So it is entirely possible that her Fish Potato Pie could have graced the White House table while he was president, or that he could have enjoyed it in his semi-retirement afterward.
Martha Jefferson Randolph’s Fish Potato Pie
- 1 lb trout or whitefish
- 1 lb mashed potatoes
- 2 tbsp butter
- ¼ tsp nutmeg
- ⅛ tsp pepper
- ½ tsp salt
- 2 tbsp brandy
- cream or milk
- 9-inch pie shell
Steam fish just enough to shred. Mix with mashed potatoes made as you like mashed potatoes. Mix in butter, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and brandy. If too stiff, thin with cream or milk. Turn into pie shell and bake at 375° for about thirty minutes, until set.
Whatever the provenance, Kimball’s/Trist’s collection of recipes includes early examples of two classic southern dishes: gumbo, and rice and beans. The rice and beans are attributed to a “Baron de Brise”, who may be the most obscure of all of the attributions in Kimball’s book. Morton Gill Clark, in his French-American Cookery from New Orleans to Quebec, attributes the “Podrilla à la Créole” as “a great favorite of Thomas Jefferson, the recipe for which he got from his friend the Baron de Brise.”
That’s pure cookbook history, with no reference and nothing to back it up. It’s also pretty much the only reference to Baron de Brise I could find. I would expect a Baronial “friend of Thomas Jefferson” to have left more of a mark in historical documents. But if Clark is right, this recipe is contemporaneous with Jefferson.
The Baron de Brise’s Rice and Beans
Beans
- 2 cups red beans
- ¼ lb salt pork
- salt and pepper
- seasonal herbs
Soak the beans overnight in plenty of water, and drain. Cover again with water according to the instructions with the beans, add pork, salt and pepper to taste, and chopped herbs.
Rice
- 1 cup rice
- salted water or broth
- 2 tbsp butter
- salt and pepper
Boil rice in salted water and/or broth until light and tender, according to the instructions with the rice. Add butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Press into a ring mould. Bake at 350° for ten minutes. Turn out, and fill with beans.
One of President Jefferson’s most famous acts was the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. It wasn’t an impulse purchase; he’d been worried about the security of our western borders well before the Purchase, both in matters large and small. In 1802, he appointed Hore Browse Trist, Sr., to a position in the Mississippi Territory, which bordered the French territory and so needed customs officials.
One of Hore Browse Trist, Sr.’s sons was Nicholas Philip Trist, who married Thomas Jefferson’s granddaughter Virginia Randolph on September 11, 1824. His other son was Hore Browse Trist, Jr., who remained in the Louisiana area. Mrs. Rosella Trist, to whom the Gumbo is attributed, was Hore Browse Trist, Jr.’s wife, although it’s unclear when they married. Depending on that date, this recipe, too, might have been enjoyed by Jefferson.
If he did, I expect that he considered gumbo a major benefit of having acquired the Louisiana Territory for the United States!
Mrs. Rosella Trist’s Gumbo
- 2 tbsp butter or lard
- 1 tbsp flour
- 1 tsp chopped parsley
- ½ onion minced fine
- 3-4 lbs chicken parts
- 2 quarts water
- salt
- black pepper
- red pepper
- 2-3 tbsp sassafras powder
Melt fat in a large pot. Gradually stir in flour, parsley, and onion until flour is brown. Add and brown the chicken, then add the water and season to taste with salt, black pepper, and red pepper. Boil gently for 90 minutes. Reduce heat and stir in sassafras, stirring constantly without boiling.
This is not at all what I expect to get if I order gumbo in a Louisiana-inspired restaurant today. But it is an absolutely lovely chicken stew, simply flavored. If it did arrive in time, it could have made a wonderful soup for an ailing ex-President.
I’ve made a PDF of all of the recipes I’ve featured here, formatted to print three 6×4 cards per page. You can print them on normal paper or on cardstock. Obviously if you have your own favorite format you can just copy and paste the recipes from this post.
I have many more Bicentennial, Centennial, and Founders-era recipes on my Meals for the Sestercentennial series that I started in 2023, including both the Eye in the Biscuit and the Jellied Guacamole. That series led to my Sestercentennial Cookery which is available in print as well as a free download.
I’ve been doing a few non-food Sestercentennial Year postings starting with the Battle of Bennington last August. Researching those is where I found the opening and closing quotes for this post.
All of the cookbooks I used as references from the Centennial and earlier are available online. If they weren’t available online before I wrote about them, I scanned them in myself and posted them on my web site. They’re linked in the body of the post, but here they are again all in one place. They’re all fascinating.
- The Centennial Cook Book and General Guide
- The Centennial Buckeye Cook Book
- The Horsford Cook-Book
- American Cookery
- Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book
- The National Cookery Book
There are some differences between the 1976 version of Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book that I used and the 2007 version available for checkout on the Internet Archive. I haven’t noticed any differences in recipes, but I also haven’t looked, and I just now noticed that the 2007 Archive reprint titles the rice and beans as “Podrilla là Creole” where my 1976 reprint titles it “Podrilla à la Creole”. Having not seen the 1938 original, I can’t say which matches it.
There are restored versions of American Cookery in print. I especially like the one from Colonial Printer & Bookbindery, available from their website and from places like Townsends. It’s a quality facsimile without embellishment, made in the U.S.A.
Each coming festival shall bring to memory’s view their noble end
And blessings on each honor’d name shall from the patriot’s lips ascend.
—“Lines on the Deaths of Thomas Jefferson and John Adams”, by A Lady of Richmond, E.L.S., July 14, 1826.















































































































































