A Guest Post by Orvan Taurus of https://elegantungulate.wordpress.com/
Alternative/Kerosene Lighting
Chances are a good many already know all this, but not everybody does. Also, a reminder
won’t hurt. And it’s not like I know everything, so maybe comments will provide some (pardon) enlightenment.
First, yes, electric light is superior when available. There’s no fuel that can spill, no vapors
that can explode, and the convenience of switches. Even backup, for dealing with a blackout, electric is superior at least as long as the batteries last. Add a photovoltaic (“solar”) panel and you can even recharge in daylight. Also, there won’t be the risk of a mess or fire from Fluffy or Fido or Timmy getting rambunctious and knocking a lamp or lantern over.
So why bother with anything else? There are a few possibilities. The trivial one is a desire for a particular atmosphere, much like the candlelight dinner or bath. More seriously, if you do have backup power in a blackout, especially if it’s quiet, you might not want to advertise to neighbors or passersby that you have power. Let them see the yellow of lantern flame and assume you don’t have a battery bank or a quiet generator somewhere. In the colder months, the heat they produce can be useful. It won’t be enough to heat the house, but a couple might be enough to keep a smaller room closer to livable. And a lantern can warm (not actually cook, just warm) food and drink. Warmer coffee or tea, or warm soup would be welcome if the furnace fan isn’t running.
Lamp and lantern seem to be used almost interchangeably, but a lamp is generally something set in place and left there rather than moved around and a lantern is made to be carried so it can be readily moved. Lamps can fit in as décor, Lanterns… well, the most practical have been called “barn lanterns” as they were considered more suited for use outside the outside where looks were not important.
Here’s a simple lamp:

It’s fairly obvious that this is not something practical to carry around. Its use is fairly simple, but not quite as straightforward as someone new to it might expect. To prepare for use, it is
filled to with kerosene (or Klean Heat, or an equivalent kerosene-alike).[1] The lamp is then
left for at least 20 minutes to let the fuel soak into the wick.
To light it, the glass chimney is removed and set aside. Then the wick is adjusted to have
some wick exposed just above the burner. This is lit, and the chimney put back into place.
The wick is then turned down into the burner (paradoxically, the flame will grow for a moment as this is done) until there is a low yellow flame. The lamp is left running low for several minutes to let the chimney slowly heat up. If the flame is brought high right away, there is risk of thermal shock cracking the glass. Then, after several minutes the wick can be turned up. It might be wise to do this in steps, just to be sure of slow heating. The flame will soot if it’s too high – and as things heat up the flame will grow a bit as things flow more easily. It’s best to not go for the brightest (tallest) flame, but a bit below that where the lamp can run without sooting.
To put it out, turn the wick down to get a minimal yellow flame and carefully cup a hand
behind, but NOT TOUCHING, the chimney and blow a puff across the top of the chimney. The turbulence will do the job of blowing out the low flame. Then, let the lamp cool before doing anything more with it.
If the lamp had been sooting, the chimney might need cleaning and thorough drying. Take
things slow, it is glass after all, not as thick as most drinking glasses. This is a time for hand washing, and drying, with the final drying in a drying rack or on a towel.
The flame will take the shape of the wick. That is, if the wick is cut flat, the flame will be
generally flat. If the wick is cut to a peak, the flame will have a peak. Wicks are usually cut as flat as possible or with a gentle ‘crown’ curve. Some do like the peak cut. I would say to avoid a V-cut as then the flame edges very easily become sooting peaks at surprisingly low flame.
There is a range of useful light levels. A yellow flame can be low to high. Higher is brighter, of course. It also makes for more heat and uses more fuel. It is possible to turn things very low and get a short edge of blue flame. This doesn’t provide much light as the carbon isn’t burning and incandescing. And when carbon isn’t burning in full, it’s undergoing partial combustion… which means carbon monoxide. At the low level, this isn’t very much, but it is there. At too high, there is soot and that also means incomplete combustion, and carbon monoxide. The soot is unpleasant, too. If your lamp reminds you of an older diesel, turn it down! A moderate to high yellow flame is about ideal for light production without soot or monoxide.
Lamps and lanterns come in varying wick widths. The wider the wick, the wider the flame and thus the bright the lamp or lantern. Wider wicks call for kerosene or a kerosene-alike.
Narrower wicks, and small round wicks, can use liquid paraffin but this comes at the price of brightness. The liquid paraffin will have less of an odor, but be only half as bright. The flame can only be brought about half as high before sooting.
Refueling must be done cold, and never, EVER when there is flame. Even if there is a
convenient cap so that the chimney and burner can be left in place. Why? Sure, you could
toss a lit match into a cup of kerosene (why are you doing that?) and, like with diesel, the
match would go out. But that’s liquid kerosene. That space above the liquid isn’t just air. It’s
air and kerosene vapor. The vapor can and will explode. The burner is made to keep the flame far enough away from the air-vapor mix to avoid problems. Adding fuel to running lamp or lantern means the liquid level rises. That pushes the fuel-air mix up out of the fuel reservoir and into… the flame that will set it off. BOOM!
A selection of lanterns:

These are all made by Dietz (now made in China…though “with original USA tooling” for what that’s worth). From left to right: Jupiter (#2500), Air Pilot (#8), #76, Comet (#50). Jupiter is the largest model and Comet the smallest Dietz makes. Some… more experienced… folks might recognize the Comet as what was standard for Scouting back when Scouts were still trusted with fire.
These all work the same way, with minor variation. The variation is which side the “globe lifter” lever is on, and if the burner cone rises with the globe or not. It’s not that important, all combinations work. Like with the lamps, the fuel is added to a cold lantern and given time for it to soak into the wick.
To light it, the wick is turned up just enough to be seen over the burner, the globe lifter is pressed down, moving the globe up. The wick can then be lit. A longer match or grill lighter can make this easier. The globe is lowered and the wick turned down to below the burner to get a low flame to allow the globe to slowly heat up so as to avoid thermal shock. After that, operation is similar to the lamps.
To extinguish the flame, the wick is simply turned down until the flame goes out.
All the warnings for lamps apply. NEVER refuel while burning. Take things slow and easy. Too high a flame means soot.
The advantage of this design is not just that the handle (which is NOT the ring on top) means it can be carried around or hung from a hook – which keeps it out of the way, but that the flame will not be blown out even in very windy conditions. That’s how the design got the nickname “hurricane lantern” as even severe winds wouldn’t blow out the flame. Another advantage is that if the lantern is toppled over, it goes out. You might get a mess and darkness, but that beats a fire. However, this “safety feature” is only partly true. If conditions are windy enough, even a tipped over lantern will continue to burn. I have experienced this.
Width of wick, again, determines greatest useful brightness. The Comet can put out maybe 4 candlepower, and the Jupiter up to 14.. maybe 18 if pushed.
The #76 might be the best “all rounder” with the Comet better for smaller frames and portability, the Jupiter best for the most light and heat (and burn time) at the cost of space. The Air Pilot seems a nice compromise between the #76 and the Jupiter – and being perhaps less popular, less tooling wear, and just feels a bit better than the #76. That said, if the #76 is your choice, you might wish to consider paying a few bucks more for the German-made nigh-equivalent “Baby Special” Feuerhand #276. The #276 has accessories available such as a reflector to aim more light downward, and a setup for warming (not cooking) food or beverages. I have such and water got to about 175 F and not a degree more. The globes and wicks for the Dietz #76 and Feuerhand #276 are interchangeable – though the Feuerhand globes are made of low-expansion borosilicate (less likely to crack from thermal shock) glass. There are warming plates available for other lanterns, as well. I have one for the Jupiter. Again, warming rather than cooking.
That’s the quick(?) overview for common kerosene lamps and lanterns. I’ve not covered a few things: mantle lamps, pressure lamps, a kerosene-electric (yes, really) lantern, nor butane or propane lamps or lanterns. Nor cooking oil lamps, which are older than candles.
[1] Under NO circumstance can gasoline (camp fuel, white gas) or alcohol be used – that would turn it from a lamp into a bomb – with you up close when it is lit and it will go off immediately. Despite some claims, cooking oils won’t work. They are too thick to make it up the wick in sufficiency.




