
Every time a visit to Portugal looms, I find myself struggling internally. And I have to ask myself what is wrong with me.
Don’t get me wrong. Part of it is traveling. I despise travel and the further away I have to go the harder it is to psyche myself for it.
Yes, even cons. Years ago — I think now my grumpy nature is better understood — when I was writing six books (tradpub which is always more work/time consuming than indie books) a year, and driving the kids around, etc, friends used to tell me “Oh, don’t worry, con xyz is coming up. You get to relax and have fun.”
Of course, for me cons are work and back then they were fairly terrifying work, since I was meeting editors, and a misspoken word could make or break my career. Now I go to cons to meet fans, and by and large I love my fans and fans and my professional friends are quirky and kind and can quite pleasantly ignore my more awkward quirks.
So now my relationship with cons is love/hate. I actually enjoy hanging out with friends and spending time with my fans. But I still hate traveling, I hate sleeping in hotels, I hate not having my cats and my ROUTINE. I like waking up and having my food, and my coffee and petting my cats and talking to my husband, and sitting in my chair to work. I like evening walks with my husband (when I can convince him.) I like– Well… I like my life and the older I become the more I autistically resent disruptions to it.
But you know, there are things we could be doing… Suppose my husband had arranged for a stay at a seaside B & B for a week or two. I’d still be fried over “we have to leave the cats!” (Particularly with how Havey is right now. I mean, we might only have two weeks.) But I’d kind of be looking forward to it. Relaxing for two weeks, no cleaning, no home maintenance, no cooking. Just writing, and walks on the beach.
Okay, but going to the beach in the States we could drive. It would not involve long plane rides, 24 hours with connections.
Okay, but here’s the thing: Imagine I was going to Great Britain, or Italy or Greece, in the 1990s. (The specification is important, since right now much of the world appears to be on fire, which in turn makes me hesitant to going.) I’d be excited. Looking forward to it.
So, do I seriously dislike Portugal? Is that the problem?
… No. I mean, would I go to Portugal if I didn’t have family there, and a complicated relationship relating to growing up there?
No. Probably not. Mostly because my cultural touchstones, the places where I’ve set stories, are not there. So, I’d try to see the places where I dream.
BUT supposing I had no history with Portugal and were visiting, I’d also, again, probably be excited. Because, you know, it’s an interesting country, with an interesting history, nice beaches, a wealth of historical architecture. We’d go, poke around museums and such, and have a grand old time.
So… Is it my family?
Well, no. They’re the ones enticing me there at all, in this election year when I’m more nervous than a cat at a canine show and really hate to leave the country.
And they’re not so all-encompassing that Dan and I won’t “escape” for two or three days, or five or six one day at a time, and go walk around castles and museums, Roman ruins and old churches. (And yes, I’ll try to post pictures.) We’ll be home in the evening for dinner and to see relatives, and that works.
It’s more… the country. It’s….
Things will have changed. Yes, the relatives too, but also the places that harbored memory. Places I used to go cannot be found. Little stores I loved; patches of wood I walked through; the little art materials store that required one to take the 19th century elevator that creaked and swayed, all of it is gone, as though it had never been. The places where mom and I used to have ice cream. The coffee shops where my friends and I unhooked the world and turned it around the other way are all vanished.
The places I grew up, grandma’s house where I go when I dream, are all either so changed that they’re unrecognizable, or gone, plowed under, paved over.
It’s in a way like visiting the graveyard and looking at pictures on the graves, and remembering the people you knew, only with places. (Though at my age there’s plenty of tombs of friends and relatives that I’ll inevitably visit on the trip.)
But more so, because I found the last time that the places I loved have forgotten me. Meaning that my mother’s friends, people I knew, no longer remember I exist. In a way this makes perfect sense. After all, I was never central in their lives, and I’ve been gone almost half a century. Memory rewrites and heals over.
And you know, here’s the thing, even if I could go back there 40 years ago, I wouldn’t be the same going back, so it would all still feel strange and out of place. Because I have changed. I found recently how much I have changed, and how little I can tolerate the small concessions that used to be second nature to me when I lived there. The culture rubs me wrong, not because it’s changed (Oh, it probably has, but not markedly) but because I’ve changed so profoundly. Become a foreigner. And of course, everyone who knew me and remembers me still expects me to belong, to KNOW to fit in effortlessly. (Spoiler: I never fit in effortlessly, I merely used to be able to pretend.)
So even if I could go to the past, I’d fit oddly. The person who lived there and the things she loved, even if she never quite fit in, is quite gone, as if she’d never been.
Except for memories. Strange memories. Early morning, in deep fog, coming out of the train in downtown Porto. The old buildings vanishing into smoky fantasy. The trolley cars. Perhaps a hint of a smell of roasting chestnuts. The bookstores, where I could lose myself for hours. The coffee shops where I could sit and have a coffee and a pastry, and read…
Sitting on my parents’ terrace, late a summer night, listening to music and looking up at the dark sky with all the stars. (The fields around there are now skyscrapers, the stars lost in the light.)
There are memories and things I loved. But they’re not there anymore, just like I’m not there anymore.
And all that stays behind is memories. Snapshots in the mist. Sitting down to tea with grandma. Walking under the drizzle through downtown streets, the thought of a book waiting me up the road guiding my steps. Summer evenings with the late-setting sun drowning in red in the west, and a warm breeze blowing.
The people and places I loved and which are gone. Just as I am in a way gone.
The me that I barely remember passes through, a ghost among the ghosts.
We live not in places, but in slices of places and time. Before and after us, others possess places we love and live in them their way. Our time remains back in the past. New times take its place. People forget us, and we forget them. Absence like death dress people with their best smiles, perhaps, but it also changes them in our minds to what they never were.
Maid most dear, I am not here. I have no place, no part. No home anymore, in sea or shore. Except in your heart.















































































































